In the past, I rode a Ciocc racing bike. It was quick and very responsive, however, on a long ride, I would get sore. It had a rougher ride and you could feel all the bumps. For a few years I rode my Mercian Vincitore touring bike, though admittedly, I did not put all that many miles on it. It definitively was more comfortable, but I remember thinking it felt a little dead. Clearly it did not have the same get up and go I was used to in my Ciocc. The comfort bike I am riding now is very comfortable, but it is not responsive and it a way I find it harder to ride because you cannot really stand up to power up hills and such.
What type of bike to get next??? I have been trying to find a bike that would have some speed if I want it, but also one that is comfortable on a long ride of up to 100 miles or more. (Yes, I know I am thinking way ahead here). I have come across a number of websites and blogs that talk about randonneuring. The Randonneurs USA website defines randonneuring like this:
Randonneuring is long-distance unsupported endurance cycling. This style of riding is non-competitive in nature, and self-sufficiency is paramount. When riders participate in randonneuring events, they are part of a long tradition that goes back to the beginning of the sport of cycling in France and Italy. Friendly camaraderie, not competition, is the hallmark of randonneuring.
A bike designed for randonneuring is meant to be capable of speed if needed, but also for comfort on a long ride. They are designed to carry weight up. A rider wants to have everything they need to be accessible while riding, so this necessitates a bag on the front of the bike. While the the design makes the bike stable with a front load, most riders (that I have read about) describe the bike as more stable and comfortable in general, even without a front load. Many say they do not notice a handling difference when loaded versus not, which would seem to be the point, right? I won't talk about geometry here, but there are different areas of thought on the subject. Some believe the bike should have a low-trail, which has to do with the fork angle and rake, but I don't profess to be an expert, so I will not try to explain it here. There are some very polarized views on the subject. In general, a bike set up for light touring should work as a start. A comfortable saddle is a must. I have never owned a Brooks saddle, but I understand that once broken in, there is nothing more comfortable. I have used Selle San Marco saddles, but those were more or less for racing, not comfort. I would also like to try a Selle Anotomica saddle. They say they do not need to be broken in and are very comfortable.
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| Brooks B17 |
Bigger diameter tires can also help make the bike more comfortable. My Mercian has 23mm tires, but for randonneuring and comfort, a tire diameter of 32-42mm (or bigger) can help considerably. They run at lower pressures and provide a more comfortable ride.
I may consider a customer bike as a reward when I reach my weight goal. We shall see. When I was younger I would drool over the custom Davidson Bicycles, a local Seattle builder or Rodriguez, another Seattle custom bike builder. But while these bikes would be fully custom, I still need to figure out exactly what I want because a customer racing bike is different than a custom touring bike.
I may play with my Mercian. It is a touring frame and is relatively comfortable. I can swap out the saddle with one of those above. I was considering switching to 650b wheels, to have the ability to add a larger diameter tire, however, I realize I have plenty of clearance between the fork and tire, so I can probably try a larger diameter 700c tire. Taking some crude measurement, it even appears to be a low-trail bike, though at the upper end of the range. However, it will likely become more neutral adding bigger tires. Fortunately I have another set of Campagnolo Nuovo Record hubs, so I can keep my current wheel set and have some built with wider rims to handle a bigger tire. I believe I currently have a racing freewheel on it, so I would likely put a freewheel with a larger range on and maybe switch to a triple crank in front to give myself a wide range of gearing. While I could get a newer style hubs that could handle a 10 speed rear cassette, that would require work to my frame and would move it too far from it vintage state. I would prefer to keep this bike as vintage as possible. Now if I go with a custom bike at some point, all bets are off. Sram, indexed shifting, oh my! As a side note, I have never used anything other than friction shifters on the downtube for shifing on a road bike. When Campagnolo Ergo and Shimano STI shifters came out in the early nineties, I drooled and couldn't wait to try them, but never did.
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| My Mercian in its current state |
I guess that is enough for now, I need to escape from my rabbit hole...
For more information on randonneuring, randonneuring bikes and low trail bikes visit:
Jan Heine's Blog, Off the Beaten Path or try subscribing to his Bicycle Quarterly magazine.
Rivendell Bicycle Works, makes comfortable bikes, some for randonneuring
Also, check out the Lovely Bicycle! blog, written by Veluria (Constance Winters), who also writes for Bicycling Magazine. She compares several different randonneuring style bikes, talks about what low-trail bikes are and compares Rivendell and a Jan Heine style low-trail bike.
Velo-Orange has quickly become one of my favorite sites as well, with lots of great accessories and even some randonneuring style frames at reasonable prices.
A final note, I have no affiliation with any of the referenced websites or links. I do not advertise or receive any compensation for recommending any products. All opinions and ideas (right or wrong) were generated through my own "rabbit hole" research. I don't profess to be an expert on anything, so always get a second opinion.
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